Full Hookup vs Partial Hookup vs Dry Camping: Complete Beginner Guide
Planning your first RV trip? Learn RV hookup types explained simply, with full vs partial vs dry camping tips, mistakes and a campsite checklist.
Photo by Joshua Woroniecki on Unsplash
When you book a campsite for the first time, you’ll see “full hookup,” “partial hookup,” “water and electric only,” and “dry camping” with little explanation. These aren’t marketing labels—they describe what connections your site actually has, and they directly shape how you manage water, power, and waste. Pick the wrong type and you could be hunting for a dump station at 9 p.m. or watching your battery die before morning.

Photo by Joshua Woroniecki on Unsplash
What RV Hookups Actually Are
A hookup is a utility connection at your site that supplies or removes what the RV needs:
- Water: a potable spigot that feeds your fresh tank or direct plumbing, so you can shower, flush, and run faucets without draining your onboard supply.
- Electric: a pedestal with 30-amp, 50-amp, or sometimes 15/20-amp service that powers appliances, A/C, and outlets when plugged in.
- Sewer: a drain that carries gray and black waste away continuously, so you never visit a dump station.
Full Hookup
Water, sewer, and electric at the site. This is the easiest mode: tanks stay empty, the A/C runs all day, and you never think about power. Private resorts (KOA and similar) charge $40-$90/night for these; state parks often offer them at the lower end.
Partial Hookup
Usually water and electric, no sewer. You still refill fresh water and run A/C, but you must use a dump station before you leave. Common at older state and county parks. Plan a dump stop into your departure morning.
Dry Camping (No Hookups)
No connections—you’re self-contained. You manage your own water (use it sparingly), power (battery, solar, or generator), and waste (tanks fill; dump later). Dry camping on public land (Bureau of Land Management and National Forest sites) is often free or $5-$15/night; boondocking on dispersed land is free where allowed. It’s the cheapest way to camp and the most work.
30-Amp vs 50-Amp
Your rig has one plug type. Most smaller RVs use 30-amp; large Class A and fifth wheels use 50-amp. A $15 adapter lets you connect when the pedestal doesn’t match, but a 30-amp rig on a 50-amp site still only draws 30 amps—run the A/C and microwave one at a time.
Common Mistakes
- Booking a partial site and forgetting the dump. Build a dump stop into departure day.
- No surge protector. A $30 pedestal surge protector saves your electronics from bad campground wiring.
- Letting the fresh hose touch the ground. Keep potable and sewer hoses separate and off the dirt.
- Running everything at once on 30-amp. Trip the pedestal breaker; stagger high-draw appliances.
Campsite Checklist
- Confirm hookup type matches your plan (full/partial/dry)
- Pack a 30-to-50 or 50-to-30 adapter
- Bring a pedestal surge protector
- For dry camping: full fresh tank, charged batteries, generator if you’ll run A/C
- Separate potable and sewer hoses; keep both off the ground
Pick the site type that fits how you camp, and the rest of the trip runs on autopilot.
Plan hookup-aware stops with our campground finder and budget the nightly rates with our RV Trip Budget Calculator.
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